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Hair Care

Up to the Task Glycolic Acid Hair Mask

Coast Southwest's creation contains GlyAcid 70 HP.

Author Image

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor, HAPPI
Up to the Task Glycolic Acid Hair Mask
Ingredients
%

Phase A

  • Deionized Water (Water)
  • 69.40
  • Glycerin 99.7% USP (Coast Southwest)
  • 2.00
  • Tetrasodium EDTA
  • 0.10
  • Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
  • 0.50

Phase B

  • Deionized water
  • 5.00
  • GlyAcid 70 HP (Coast Southwest, CrossChem) (Glycolic Acid) (Glycolic Acid)
  • 4.30
  • KOH, 30% (Potassium Hydroxide)
  • q.s.

Phase C

  • Iris (Coast Southwest, Sonneborn) (C12-17 Alkane)
  • 3.00
  • C’Ester BO (Coast Southwest, Ethox Chemicals) (Butyl Oleate)
  • 2.00
  • EndipureSweet Almond (Coast Southwest, Blue Diamond Growers) (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil)
  • 3.00
  • JD Jojoba Hair Complex (Coast Southwest, Jojoba Desert) (Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil (and) Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Seed Oil (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol)
  • 2.00
  • Endipure Shea (Coast Southwest) (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Nut Extract)
  • 1.25
  • Cosmosil BB Butter - Baobab Butter (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre (ICSC)) (Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter)
  • 0.75
  • Glossamer L6600 (Coast Southwest) (Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer)
  • 0.50
  • Mascol 68/30P (Coast Southwest, Musim Mas) (Cetearyl Alcohol)
  • 2.25

Phase D

  • Endicare ETP-437 (Coast Southwest) (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Trideceth-6)
  • 3.00

Phase E

  • Sharomix Amplify AM24 (Coast Southwest, Inc., Sharon Personal Care) (Methylpropanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Polyquaternium-80 (and) Didecyldimonium Chloride)
  • 0.50

Phase F

  • Olivatis 15C (Coast Southwest, Medolla Specialty Chemicals) (Olive Oil PEG-8 Esters)
  • 0.25
  • Fragrance
  • 0.20

Properties

pH: 4.0 to 5.0; Viscosity: Spindle 5 @ 30 rpm 6000 cP to 8000 cP

Procedure

Phase A - Combine first three ingredients in main vessel at room temperature. With rapid mixing slowly add guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Phase B - With proper personal protective equipment (PPE), add water and GlyAcid 70 to side vessel. Slowly neutralize the GlyAcid  70 with potassium hydroxide 30% solution to pH 4.5 to 5.0. The reaction will be exothermic and generate heat. An ice bath may be used. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat main vessel to 70°C to 75°C. Phase C - Combine Phase C in side vessel and heat to 70°C to 75°C. At temperature, add Phase C to AB with increased mixing as needed. Phase D - Discontinue heat. Add Phase D to Phase ABC. Batch will thicken. Continue to mix at high speed. Phase E - Once cooled below 50°C, add Phase E. Phase F - Pre-mix Phase F and add to batch. Cool to room temperature.

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